Kinematics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.12.004

Abstract

Laboratory experiments have been conducted in a loose sediment beach facility in order to estimate the wave characteristics needed for sediment transport modelling. A roller model and a Boussinesq type model have been used for comparing and discussing the experimental results. It is shown that the velocity skewness and acceleration skewness evolutions along the beach profile can be estimated from surface elevations measurements. The roller model correctly reproduces the set-up and undertow measurements. The Boussinesq model correctly reproduces the wave non-linearities with some discrepancies in the breaking region over the bar topography.